SKIN CARE 101

Nov 11, 2019

SKIN CARE 101

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 There is an overwhelming amount of information and skin care products out there these days. What are the skin care essentials that really matter? With all the products on the market claiming to have found the secret to forever young – from miracle creams, cellulite reducing seaweed wraps, to energy boosting copper bracelets – which ones really work?

Being a Registered Nurse in the medical aesthetics industry for a few years, I can speak to the quick, effective, safe, and relatively immediate results of dermal fillers and neuromodulators (neuromodulators take a few days to start working). While these treatments are very effective, they can become expensive - depending on the chosen treatments -, and aren’t without their risks – as is any medical procedure. When choosing where you get your injections done, please do your research and make sure you are investing in an injector with knowledge and training, and who has a solid foundation of experience.

We know neuromodulators and/or dermal fillers work great, but what can we do at home to take care of our skin?

A good skin care routine can reduce redness and inflammation, acne, hyperpigmentation, rosacea, and fine lines and wrinkles. Facial cleansers and creams when individualized to your needs, can help your skin do what you want it to do. 

So how do we avoid bogus retail scams, and find home skin care products that really work? I have gone through multiple dermatological Medical Journals to try to find some products that are backed by science. What I found was, there are many studies done on the efficacy of Vitamin C and Retinoid Serums. 

The Science,

Vitamin C Serums, if this isn’t already in your skin care routine, here’s why you should consider it:

As you know, Vitamin C is a nutrient we get in our diet from foods such as citrus fruits and leafy greens. It aids our body in multiple ways, such as boosting the immune system and acts as an antioxidant. What you may not have known is, “when the skin is exposed to UV light, ROS [free radicals] such as the superoxide ion, peroxide and singlet oxygen are generated. Vit. C protects the skin from oxidative stress by sequentially donating electrons to neutralize the free radicals.” [5] What that means is, Vit C serums help neutralize free radicals caused from UV light that are damaging to our skin.

• Sunscreens are great to block those UV rays caused by the glorious sunshine, but they only block 55% of free radicals produced by UV exposure. Researchers from Indian Dermatology Online Journal, “Vitamin C in Dermatology” say, to optimize UV protection, it is important to use sunscreens in combination with a topical antioxidant (Vit C), to prevent photoaging. [5]

• Vit C can also stimulate collagen production, has anti-inflammatory effects, and can be used a depigmenting agent [5]

• The same studies have shown that a combination serum of 0.5% ferulic acid (a potent antioxidant of plant origin), 15% Vit. C, 1% Vit. E can increase the efficacy of Vit. C eight-fold [5]

• You could try Alumier C&E Peptide Serum. This product includes the right ratio of ingredients, is evidenced based, and has fantastic reviews. One feature I love about this specific product, is that the active vit c ingredients come separate in a capsule in the lid. When the product is received, you break the seal, swirl the bottle, and the active ingredients are mixed with the serum. This unique feature allows the product to be as fresh and effective as possible, as vitamin C can degrade and become less effective when left in premixed serums with manufacturers or on stores' shelves

Retinoids, before moisturizing at night, apply a retinoid based serum. Here’s why;

Retinoids are a Vitamin A derivative that when used on the skin helps improve skin cell turnover. Retinol is a type of retinoid that is available over the counter. Rentinol A has been around for a long time, but Retinoids were first marketed in 1982 by Hoff-Mann-La Roche as Accutane. It has a role to play in cancer prevention and treatment (on the skin specifically), it can be used for psoriasis and acne, and has shown to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, and increase collagen production. [2]

Tretinoin happens to be the retinoid that is investigated more than any other retinoid implicated in the treatment of photoaging. In studies it was shown to produce new collagen in the papillary dermis, which also correlated with wrinkle effacement. This translates into the potential for smoothing wrinkles, increase collagen production for plumper, and a softer skin [2]

• Adverse effects; some people may have side effects of redness and irritation, so start slow with these products, and use with moisturizers

• Alumier MD also offers an evidenced based Retinol serum

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The algorithm for a good skin care routine seems fairly standard:

In the am

a) rinse with warm (not hot) water,

b) apply Vit C Serum, and

c) use any individualized skin care boosters

d) moisturize (always with SPF!).

At night

a) cleanse

b) exfoliate (3x/week only)

c) apply retinoid serum

d) use any individualized skin care boosters

e) moisturize

Skin Care Tips your wallet will thank you for:
⦁ Diet rich in vitamin c – oranges, grapefruit, citrus fruits, green leafy vegetables, strawberries, papaya and broccoli
⦁ Try vaseline or coconut oil for your makeup removing needs for a gentle, cost effective approach
⦁ Incorporating foods such as avocados, olive oil, flax seeds, nuts and fish into your diet is important. The fatty acids are crucial for your skin to look youthful.
⦁ Drink plenty of water – helps hydrate and plump naturally
⦁ Eat foods high in antioxidants; Blueberries, Pomegranates, Acai berries, Goji berries, Spinach, Raspberries, Dark chocolate, green tea
⦁ Avoid rubbing and stretching of the skin when applying and removing makeup or washing and moisturizing your face.

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References
Ushma S. Neill.Skin care in the aging female: myths and truths 2012 Feb 1. doi: ⦁ 10.1172/JCI61978
Elizabeth H. Heller and ⦁ Norman J. Shiffman⦁ . Synthetic retinoids in dermatology.⦁ Can Med Assoc J. 1985 May 15; 132(10): 1129–1136.
Siddharth Mukherjee,1 ⦁ Abhijit Date,2 ⦁ Vandana Patravale,3 ⦁ Hans Christian Korting,4 ⦁ Alexander Roeder,4 and ⦁ Günther Weindl5. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Dove Press. 2006 Dec; 1(4): 327–348
K⦁ aleigh Fasanella. Six Top Dermatologists Reveal Their Skin-Care Routines. Allure Magazine. red. December 4, 2018
⦁ Pumori Saokar Telang. Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatol Online J 2013 Apr-Jun; 4(2): 143–146.